The past guards of Crete

Forts

Crete in ancient times was not threatened by external enemies. The first external enemies of the island were the Romans. Therefore, till then, the fortification of cities was focused on internal enemies. After the Roman Empire (67 BC-330 AD) things changed radically. Crete became a province of the Eastern Roman Empire, which later transformed to the Byzantine Empire. At the same time, several civilizations started developing around the Mediterranean Sea.

Thus, Crete, because of its natural and geopolitical position, acquired great importance and became an "apple of discord" for the civilizations of the Mediterranean. During the First Byzantine Period (330-824) things looked calm. For that reason, combined with the internal and external problems of the Empire, the island was on the fringes of the Byzantine interest. Thus, pirate raids increased and the seaside monasteries were fortified to protect themselves.

Under these circumstances, the first storm on the island was imminent. The Saracen pirates managed to easily occupy Crete in 824, that was almost defenseless. They settled for 140 years, till 961, during which they fortified the largest town, today’s Heraklion. After continuous failures to reoccupy Crete, Nikiforos Fokas managed to liberate the island from pirates in 961. Then, the Byzantines built new walls, which managed to keep invaders away for a few more centuries.

In 1206, Crete passed into the hands of the Genoese, who immediately gave particular importance to the fortification of the island. Within a few years the fortified three castles and 12 fortresses, but still the Venetians managed to occupy the island in 1209. The Venetian Era in Crete lasted for 4.5 centuries and was mainly dependant on the colossal fortification structures. The best Venetian engineers built the Great Castle of Candia (Heraklion). The Turks managed to take over Candia in 1669 after 22 years (!) of besieging and immediately started restoring the Venetian Forts and built a lot of small fortresses across the Cretan Territory, called Koules. The Turks took care of their forts till the end of their presence on the island.

Even today, visitors can get an idea of what the fortified cities of Crete were like, as the walls are still in excellent condition. The impressive castles in Chania, Rethymnon and Heraklion and the fortresses on the islands of Souda, Gramvousa, Spinalonga are but a few samples of Cretan fort architecture.

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The tower of Vamos

The Ottoman Empire, after the revolution of 1866, founded a new prefecture (liva) that consisted of the current provinces of Apokoronas, Sfakia and Agios Vasilios. This prefecture was called Sfakia Prefecture and its capital was Vamos.

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Gerani Tower

At position Pirgos of the village Gerani and within the boundaries of private property we meet the remains of the initally four-storey tower of Gerani. The small tower is believed to have functioned as a Medieval phrycotry to send messages by fire to other towers of the province of Rethymnon during the Venetian rule. Today only the first floor is preserved from the tower, as the two highest floors have collapsed.

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Mohoglou Tower at Mohos

The janissary Arif Mohoglou lived in Mohos (near Stalis) during the period of the Revolution of 1821. Mohoglou had built a fortress - tower, where his family lived.

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Vigla Fort in Kerato

Above the seaside settlement of Keratokambos rises the steep hill of Kerato, also known as Kastri or Vigla, on which the ancient city of Kerea is believed to have been built. Vigla also hosts the impressive cave Nychteridospilios (meaning Bat cave), which was used as a sanctuary during the antiquity.

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Matala tower (koule)

Koules of Matala is located on the hill Kastri above the famous beach of Matala. The access is very easy, as its very close to the path that heads to the Red Beach.

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Grimbiliana Tower

The settlement Grimbiliana was a suburb of Kolimbari, near Kissamos, where feudal lords Gribilli lived. They had built a tower like a fortress for their safety and when the Turks conquered the island the family of Gribilli was Islamized so as to retain their privileges.

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Apano Kasteli fort at Kastri

In the Mylopotamos province, one of the most mountainous in Crete, there were many fortresses. Among them are the Castle of Mylopotamos located in the village of Panormos and Panokastri near Agios Mamas. Panokastri or Pano Kasteli is situated in a rocky position above the village Kastri. This belonged to the family of the noble Alexios Kallergis from 1341.

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Kalonyktis Tower (Koules)

The koule of Kalonyktis is located on the hill of Agiasmatsi on the outskirts of the village of Kalonyktis in the province of Rethymno. This large tower was built by the Ottomans after the Great Cretan Revolution of 1866, being part of the large network of towers - koules - for the control of the Cretan revolutionaries.

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